Flat twists are one of the most elegant, low-tension protective styles available for natural hair. Often described as the twisting equivalent of a cornrow, flat twists lie flat against the scalp in a smooth, rope-like pattern and can be worn as a finished style on their own or as a setting method for creating a beautiful flat twist out. They are gentler than cornrows, require no braiding experience, and can be done at home with minimal tools and product.
What Is a Flat Twist?
A flat twist is a two-strand twist that is anchored flat against the scalp as it is created, similar to the way a cornrow runs flat along the scalp but using a twisting rather than an over-under braiding motion. The twist lies in a smooth, continuous line from the front of the head to the back, picking up new hair with each rotation just as a cornrow does. The finished result is a flat, rope-like twist that follows the scalp rather than hanging freely.
Flat Twists vs Cornrows
The main difference between flat twists and cornrows is the technique used to create them. Cornrows use a three-strand, under-the-hand braiding technique that creates a raised, tightly interlocked braid. Flat twists use a two-strand twisting technique that creates a smoother, rounder rope-like strand along the scalp. Flat twists are generally gentler on the hair and scalp because the two-strand technique involves less tension than the three-strand braid. They also tend to produce a more pronounced and defined pattern when taken down for a flat twist out compared to what a cornrow produces.
Step 1 — Prepare the Hair
Flat twists can be done on freshly washed hair or on second-day hair that has been refreshed with water and leave-in conditioner. The hair should be damp, detangled, and moisturized before beginning. Apply a styling cream or butter to the section you are working on to provide hold and ensure the twist stays smooth and in place.
Step 2 — Begin the Twist
Part a section of hair at the front hairline using your rat tail comb. Divide this section into two equal parts. Twist the two parts around each other once — one over the other — and then, before twisting again, pick up a thin, flat section of the adjacent hair and add it to one of the two strands. Twist again and pick up more hair. Continue in this manner, picking up new hair with each rotation and twisting it flat against the scalp as you progress backward.
Step 3 — Continue to the Nape
Continue picking up hair and twisting all the way to the nape of the neck, maintaining even tension and a flat, smooth appearance throughout. Once you have incorporated all the hair in that row, continue twisting the two strands freely without picking up new hair until you reach the ends. Secure the end by looping it under itself or tucking it in.
Creating a Flat Twist Out
To create a flat twist out, allow the flat twists to dry completely before unraveling. The drying process may take several hours or overnight. Once dry, carefully unravel each twist starting from the ends, apply a small amount of oil to your fingertips, and gently separate the sections for volume and definition. The result is a beautiful, defined wave pattern that is distinctly different from a standard twist out.
Final Thoughts
Flat twists are a versatile, gentle, and beautiful addition to any natural hair styling repertoire. Whether worn as a sleek, finished protective style or used as a setting method for a flat twist out, they deliver consistently elegant results with minimal tension on the scalp and hair follicles.